Why the dawn start matters
The park opens at first light, and the first two hours are the ones that count: the air is cool, the cats are still moving, and the light is the kind photographers cross oceans for. Leaving the villa at half past four sounds brutal and is easier than it sounds; you sleep on the drive, breakfast comes out of a basket somewhere past Tissamaharama, and by the time the gates open you are at the front of the queue rather than in the mid-morning line of jeeps.